Lasting and sewing machine



Feb. 9, 193 2. J. M. WHELTON\ LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE v 3Sheets-Sheet l Fild Dec. 3, 1929 jay 712502" Feb. 9, 1932. J, MQWHELTONLASTING AND SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 3, 1929 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Imervtorwa s MM?- Feb. 9, 1 932. J, M; WHELTON 1,844,730

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 3, 1929 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 JE YPatented Feb. 9, 1932 rrso STATES PATENT? OFFICE J'bHN in. water/iron,vor r'nmsony, mnssecnusnrrs, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED snon MA- CHINERYconronnrroiv,

orrA'rnnson, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION on NEW I a p ILASTING AND snwxneMACHI E Application filed ma ner 3, 1929. seria mi. 4i1,3es.

The present invention has relation to sewing machines in general, andrelates particutightly over the last and to secure it'to the sole by aline of stitches inserted and located so as to unite the upperpermanently to the sole in tightly-lasted relation. Another object ofthe invention is to enable this fastening of the upperto the solebystitches to be accomplished upon a curved needle machine, so as to gainthe advantages of thistype of sewing machine in easeof manipulating theshoe during the operation, and ability to 1 place the stitches closelyin the angle defined between the side of the last and the projectingmargin of the sole, without danger of the needle cutting or marring theupper material where it is supported by the bulging sid f the last. a 1v t To these endsQthe invention comprises a lasting and sewing mach nehaving stltchforming devices including a curved needle,

and means for clamping the marginal portion of the upper against theouterportion of the projecting margin ofthe sole, and means acting whilethe upper is thus clamped to wipetheimaterial of the upper which bridgesthe angle between thelast and thesole, down into this angle)Thiswipingactioninbendingthe upperand tucking it into the angle drawsthe adjacentmaterial of the upper down tightly over the last since theedge-portion is held relatively tightly against move ment through beingclamped against the sole.

curved needle of the stitch-forming devices is passed obliquely throughthe sole as close- While this relation is maintained,the

ly as possible at the exact edge of thesolefacing surface of the last,and through the upper as nearly, as practicable on the line on which theupper is bent in being tucked into the angle, sothat at the completionof the in feeding the Work past the needle. after, while the needle isthrough the work,

panying: drawings, in which stitch following the Withdrawal'of theneedle, the parts are permanently fixed in the desired lasted conditionat this point. The clamping and wiping means are arranged to have asidewise movement of their portions engaging with the upper, so as tocooperate Theremeans act to liftthe wiper and the clamping device clearofthe work, and move them sidewise back to their starting-point, afterwhich the entire operation isrepeated. This step-by-step simultaneouslasting andsewing action is continued about the circuit ofthe shoe, orabout as much thereofas maybe desired, until the upper has been securedto the sole by a continuous seam forming a permanent and enduring unionbetween these two parts of the shoe, increasing the life of the shoe andimparting to it a neat and trim contour closely approaehingthat of awelt or turnshoe. V i An illustrative embodiment of a preferred form ofthe invention is shown in the accom- Fig. 1""is a front elevation of atypical "curved needleshoe sewing machine with the devices of theinvention appliedthereto, certain .of the usual parts being omitted fromthe figure as unnecessary to an understanding of the invention;

j Fig. 2 is a side View of the same, also with certain familiar Jpartsomitted;

Fig. 3 is a sectional View ona larger scale on line 3-3 of Fig; 1,ofsuch parts as are closelyconnected with the invention, showlng theaction of the clamping. and wiping members in lasting the shoe; and iFig. '4 is a front view of the parts shown in Fig. v i 7 Havingreference to the drawings, the principles of the invention are embodied,for purposes of illustration ofits application, in a typical curvedhooked needle shoe sewing machine of the Goodyear type, widely used tosew a chain stitch in uniting the upper, insole, and welt in making weltshoes, and in joining the upper and sole of turn shoes. Such a machineis shown and described in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,108,560, granted It(Q on August 25, 1914 to Andrew Eppler, for a shoe sewing machine, towhich patent reference may be had for a full and complete du scriptionof the construction and operation of such parts as are not shown ordescribed herein-after. I

As heretofore, the machine is provided with the curved hooked needle 2and the looper 4, which are operated in well-known manner through leversactuated by cams 6 on the cam-shaft 8- rotating in brackets 10 inconnection with the frame of the machine.

In accordance with the invention, the machine is provided with a novelback-gage or work-rest 12, which engages'the wearing or outer surface ofthe sole, being forked or slotted as at 14 to permit the passage of theneedle2. Its function is to support the shoe against the thrust of theclamping and wiping devices, and it is pivotally mounted by means of itssleeve 16 uponthe stud 18 carried; by the feed-slide 19, and on whichthe awl-seginent- 66 swings, so that it may be swung rearwardly andupwardly to permit the insertion and removal of the work withoutnecessity for moving the clamping and Wiping devicesor the needle out oftheir timed relative positions. It is brought forward and locked inworlesupporting positionby a toggle-linkage comprising a link 22,pivoted at 24 tothe back gage, and connected at 26 to one end of a lever28 pivoted. at 30 to ade pending support 32 on the feed-slide The rearend of this lever 28 isconnected by a rod 34 to a spring-lifted treadle(not shown) which in its-normal raised position holds the lever 28 inthe position shown in Figures 2 and 3, with the center 26 below the linejoining centers 24 and 30, and thus with the tog-- gle locked to bracethe back gage against the thrust; of the clamping and wiping devices;Pressure of the operators foot upon the treadle serves as is-obvious topull down the rod 34, breaking the toggle and swinging the back gagerearwardly and upwardly to permit insertion or removal of the work.

The device for clamping the overhanging edge-portion of the upperagainst the upper surface of the marginal portion of the sole comprisesa member 86 which replaces the usual channelguide of the Goodyearmachine,

being attached to the channel-gniderlever 38 by bolts 40 in theusualmanner. This lever 38 as customary is mou-nted on'the feed-slide to movelaterally therewith, and to swing on the sole, and? these twopartsinturn against the back gage, with sufiicient pressure to attain theresults desired regardless of the thickness of the stock, and so thatcontinued movement thereafter of the cam lever derived from its cam 6will not greatly increase the pressure to the injury of the parts. Thus,the cam-lever is made in twoparts, the driving tooth 46 being formed onthe portion 48, while the cam-follower 50 is mounted on the rearend of aportion 52, both portions having a common pivot upon the stud 54. Uponthe 7 extension 56 of portion 52 forward of the stud 54is' pivotallymounted a pin 58 which slides freely through a swivelling eye 60provided for it on the end of the portion 48.

.About this pin is an expanding spiral spring 62 which exerts pressurein opposite directions against the eye 60 on portion 48 andagainst'extension 56, tending to force them apart, this spreading actionbeing limited by a cotter-pin 63 through" the end of the pin beyond theeye 60. lVith this arrangement, when the cam-follower 50 is movedradially inward of its cam 6 by the groove in. the cam,

the cam-lever will act as a unit to swing the channel-guide lever 38about its pivot 42, until the clamping member 36 presses the up-;per'against the sole and the sole against the 'the langle between thesole and the last coniprises a wiping foot 64 that is fixed upon theusualawl-segment 66' in place of the awl, the se ment being modifiedonly so much as is necessary to provide for rigidly attaching the wipingfoot thereto. For this purpose, the awl-segment is formed with ashoulder 68 to lie alongside the shank of the wiping foot 64, to preventchange of its angular relation with respect to the awl-segment throughturning about on its attaching bolt 70, and the bolthole; formed for thebolt 0 in the segment is elongated in'the direction of extent of thewiping foot, so-provide adjustment of its time of arrival in contactwith the upper. The 1 wiper is timed to engage the upper just as orafter the clamping member 36 has clamped the upper against thesole-margin, and the wiper continues its downward movementbetweenitheclamping member 36 and the last,

as shown in Fig. 3, to fold and tuck the upper into the angle betweenthe sole and the last,the fold being brought close to or even under theedge of the sole-facing surface of the last. The acting extremity of thewiper Y in a bearing in the feed-slide.

is wedge-shaped to conform to this angle, and engagesthe upper over amoderate extent in advance of and in closeproximity th the needle. Withthe margin of the upper clamped to the sole andbridging the angle, thedescent ofw'the wiper draws from over the last the added upper materialentering into the bend that is pressed into the angle by the Wiper,

and in this way the upperis drawn down into tightlydasted relation stepbystep as the operation progresses around the periphery of the sole; i y

The means for actuating the awl-segment are provided with a give-way topermit the tucking movement of the wiper to be stopped segmentwith thelower end of a lever 76 cariried by thefeed-slide and having a socket atits upper end to receive the rod 7 8 projecting downtrom the rockingstud 80 mounted This lever 76 isactuated through its connection at 82with the cam-lever which in accordancewith the present invention is madein two parts with a give-way acting in one direction at the pivot 84, asin the case of the cam-lever for the clamping member 36. The part 86 ofthis cam-lever whichbearsthe pin 82 has a por- 'tion 88 provided with aswivelling eye 90, and

also has a lug 92 formed back of its pivot 84.

The other part 94which has the cam-follower 96 to engage a cam-groove inone ofthe cams has aportion 98 towhich is pivoted a pin 100, extendingthrough the eye 90, and also has a lug 102'back of'the pivot 84 toengage the corresponding lug on part 86. An expanding spiral spring 104surrounds the pin 100 and acts to hold the two lugs in engagement witheach other. WVhen the rotation of the cam carries the follower 96inwardly radially of the cam, the whole camlever acts as a unit to causethe wiper to press the upper intothe angle. When the resistance of theWork to further entry of the Wiper increases past the degree determinedby the strength of the spring 104 chosen, the wiper and the part 86remain at rest while the other part 94 completes the throw given it i byits cam-groove, purposely liberal to accommodate the thinnest stock aptto be operated on by the machine. In this continued travel of part 94,the lugs separate and the spring 104 is compressed, as is obvious. The

re-engagement of the lugs upon reverse movement of part 94 insurespositive retracion of the wiper out of engagement with the work duringthe reverse movement of the feed-slide after feeding, while the needleis through the work and holding the same.

The needle 2 is mounted and actuated in customary manner, being timed toenter the wearing surface of the sole and emerge from the upper whilethe latter is held tucked into the angle by the wiper, with the clampingmember still clamping the upper against the sole and the sole againstthe back-gage. Arranged to pass close to the side of the wiper as thelatter comes torest after its feeding movement, and in line with thewedge-shaped laterally-extending working edge thereof, the needleemerges exactly in the angle between the last and the sole, and in thecorresponding[ angle formed in the upper by the wiper. 11 its retractionthe needle draws tight the thread forming astitch permanently unitingthe parts in the lasted relation established by the cooperation of thewiper and clamping member. As the operation is repeated and thedrawing-down and stitching proceed around the circuit of the last,

the upper isprogressively and evenly lasted allaround and united tothesole by a continuous seam sharply defining the outlines of the upper asdetermined by the last. This seam is well in under the edge of the lastin a position least likely to be struck and cut by a needle in asubsequent outsole-stitching or welt-applying operation, and beingnonmetallic in nature offers no risk of deflecting such needle withresultant. damage to the work or the mechanism."

The nature and scope of the invention having beenindicated, and theconstruction embod ing the invention having been specifically cescribed,what is claimed is 1. A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoeshaving, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hookedneedle, means for clamping the upper to the marginal portion of thesole, and a wiper acting to press the upper into the angle between thesole and the last while thus clamped.

2.A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes having, incombination, stitch forming devices including a curved hookedneedle, aclamping foot adapted to clamp the upper against the marginal portion ofthe sole andto movelaterallyto'feed the work, and means for pressing theupper into the angle between the sole and the last while thus clamped.it i i y i 3;A lasting and sewing machine I for stitchdown shoes having,in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hooked needle,a clamping foot adapted to clamp the upper against the marginalportionof the sole and to move laterally to feed acurved path to clampthe upper against the inarginal portion of the sole, and means forpressing the upper into the angle. between the sole and the last whilethus clamped.

A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes having, incombination, stitch-forming devices including av curved hooked needle, aclamping foot moving in a curved path to clamp the upper against themarginal portion otthesole, and a wiper moving ina curved path andadapted to press the upper into the angle between the sole-and the lastwhile thus clamped. w

6. A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes having, incombination,

stitch-forming devices including a curved hooked needle, a clamping footmoving in a curved path to clamp the upper against the marginal portionof the sole and: moving laterally to feed the work, and means forpressing the upper into the angle between the sole and the last whilethus clampec.

Tl A lasting and sewing machine for stitch'down shoes having, incombination, stitch-forming devices including a curved hooked needle, aclamping foot moving in a; curved path to clamp the upper against themarginal portion of the sole and moving; laterally tovfeed the work, anda wiper moving in a curved path and adapted to press the upper into theangle between the sole andthe last while thus clamped.

8'. A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdownshoes having, incombination, means for clamping the upper" to the marginal portion ofthe sole, means for pressing the upper into the angle between the soleand the last, a back rest movable into position tosupport the shoeagainst the thrust of such clamping and pressing means,- and out ofposition to permit entry and removal of the work, and stitch-formingdevices uniting the parts of the shoe in the relation established by theclamping, pressing, and supporting means. i i

9. A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes, having, in.combination, stitch-forming devices and means for clamping the upperagainst the marginal portion of the sole and, while thus clamped,pressing the upper into the angle between thesole and the last, theclamping and pressing means cooperating to feed the work.

10. A lastmg and sewing machine for .stitchdown shoes having, incombination,

stitch forming devices including a' needle, lasting means including amember clamping the upper against the marginal portion of the sole and amember pressing the upper intothe' angle between the sole and the lastwhile thus clamped, and a worlotable adapted to be moved from itsoperative position to: permit insertion and removal of the work whilethe devices referred to remain in their working relation to each other.

11; A lasting and sewing machine for a work support engaging thestitchdown shoes having, in combination, stitch-forming. devices,lasting devices for pulling the upper down over the last whiletherstitch-forming devices: are uniting it with the sole, a back-restsupporting the work against the thrust of the lasting devices, andtoggle linkage adapted to be manipulated by the operator to move theback-rest into and out of its workingposition.

.12. .A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdowni shoes having, incombination, a work support engaging the outer surface of the sole, aclamping foot to clamp the upper to the marginal portion of the sole,means for pressingtheupper into the angle between the sole and the last,and stitch-forming devices'uniting the parts in the relation establishedby the clamping, pressing, and supporting means including a curvedhooked needle entering the work from the outer surface side and emergingat the angle formed in the-upper.

13.. A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes having, incombination, outer surface of a sole assembled with an upper upon alast, means to clamp the upper to the marginal portion of the soleprojecting beyond the last, andto press the upper into the angle betweenthe sole and the last, and stitch-forming devices uniting the upper andthe sole in the. relation thus established including a curved hookedneedle entering the work. from theout'er surface and forming a seam inthe angle.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name tothis specification.

JOHN M. NI-I'ELTON.

DISCLAIMER 1,844, 730.J0hn M. Whelton, Peabody, Mass. LASTING AND SEWINGMACHINE.

Patent dated February 9, 1932. Disclaimer filed April 10, 1936, by theassignee, United Shoe Machinery Corporation.

Hereby enters this disclaimer to claim 13 of said Letters Patent.

[Ufiic'ial Gazette May 12, 1.936.]

